Addressing the deeply concerning issue of fabric waste

Author: Emerson Kang

The detrimental effects of overproduction and fast-fashion are often understated or ignored. However, in many African nations these effects are felt in a profound way. In Accra, the capital of Ghana, on the banks of Korle Lagoon, stands a mountain of trash over a quarter of a football field high. Over 60% of this trash is unwanted clothing. Over 40% of this clothing is of such poor quality, that it cannot be used.

A charitable act of donation has quickly evolved into a lucrative and cut-throat business that causes more harm than good. Importers in these nations often pay up to $95,000 per shipment crate of “donated” clothing items, and quickly try to identify those pieces that can yield a profit. Fights often breakout between the hawkers trying to grab the usable quality clothing that they can sell. As the quality of the clothes sent from the U.S., United Kingdom, and Australia decreases, more of the clothes are found untenable for use and are tossed into landfills, where they pollute the water and land. Ultimately o ur donation practices have led to a profit driven and wasteful outcome. (ABC news).

Furthermore, we fear the harmful effects of the current plastic crisis on our oceans and caution its effect on our health. According to a briefing published by the European Environment Agency in 2022, textiles are a “major source of microplastic pollution” typically known as Microfibers. The textile industry further contributes to other sources of microplastics via materials like “prints, coating, buttons and glitter”, of which fast-fashion textiles contribute the majority, due to their short life-span and high washing rate (Eea). Another article, published by the Guardian in 2022, indicates that on average 40% of microfibers are reported to enter oceans, lakes, and rivers each year, and make up 85% of man-made debris on shorelines around the world (The Guardian).

But these stats are not just for show. Microfibers can cause serious damage to both human and animal health. Inhaled micro fibers can result in lung inflammation and other harms such as “reproductive problems, cancer” and extensive DNA “damage” (Plastic Soup Foundation). In addition, microplastics and fibers, when consumed, can harm aquatic organisms’ ability to reproduce and feed, decreasing health and energy levels as well, most notably in plank ton, an important food source for most other aquatic organisms (Ensia). However, it is possible to reduce the rate of microfiber release into the ocean and world by utilizing more sustainable measures such as textile recycling.

“Fast-Fashion” is a trend that makes clothing available quickly and cheaply for consumers. The rise of fast-fashion, however, has had harmful effects on the working class behind garment production. The impact of this proliferation can be clearly observed in Bangladesh. Bangladesh is the second largest garment producing country in the world, and clothing makes up over 83% of their exports; essentially the country runs on fashion production. As the global demand for these goods goes up, the pace at which these clothes need to be created also increases. But, the pay and working conditions do not. Bangladeshi garment workers make around “$25 to $75 a month”, which does not suffice as a living wage. Moreover, increased production speed leads to unsafe working conditions, as factories are constructed without proper materials, supervision, or attention to detail, an example of which was demonstrated in a 2005 factory collapse that killed 64 and injured more than a hundred people. Lastly, the impact on the environment is vastly detrimental. Textile production releases 1.2 billion tons of greenhouse emissions every year, and 20% of the wastewater worldwide comes from textile dyes. Fast-Fashion continues to decimate countries that enable it. (Borgen Project) (Global Asia)

The first step to confronting the global problem in textile recycling is to acknowledge the lack of awareness about textile waste. This consumer blindspot can be observed in a study published by the Center for EcoTechnology, in which they estimate 95% of textiles can potentially be recycled but only 15% are right now (Center for EcoTechnology). In a report published by Bloomberg in 2022, such a lack of recycling in the fashion industry in the U.S. alone is estimated to be up to “ 11.3 million tons of texti le waste each year”, that is about 2,150 pieces of clothing per second (Bloomberg). This makes up a “fifth of the 300 millions tons of plastic produced globally each year” (Bloomberg).

This contributes to many adverse effects on the environment. First, polyester needs a large quantity of energy in the production process, resulting in emissions of 282 billion “tons of carbon dioxide”, which could increase the risk of random lung damage, in 2015. As discussed previously, synthetic textiles such as microfibers harm marine life and animals, “inhibiting their growth and reproduction…broken DNA and deformed gills.” The U.S. Geological Survey reports that 71% of microplastics “found in…river water came from fibers” and scientists estimate that textiles are “the largest source of microplastic pollution in the world’s oceans” (Bloomberg).

On the other hand, textile reuse and recycling methods are much more sustainable than current methods such as incincertation and landumping as it minimizes the creation of new microfibers by reusing the available materials, thus reducing all these detrimental effects. However, not knowing of the alternatives to textile waste has led to the need for “consumer awareness in order to foster environmentally” beneficial behavior.(mdpi).